The canyon hike at La Leona is unlike anything I had expected from a Costa Rica tour. The stone walls of the canyon rise on both sides as the trail descends into the river, and from that point forward you are moving through pools rather than walking on a path. Cold, clear water, five distinct swimming areas, and the falls waiting at the end. The zip line back gave a completely different perspective on the same landscape — looking down at the forest canopy you had been inside for three hours. An extraordinary and distinctive day.

We booked Plus for the tubing descent and I am very glad we did. After swimming through the canyon to reach the waterfall, coming back down the river in a tube through rapids felt like the only logical way to return. The guide controlled pace perfectly and identified wildlife on both banks the whole way. The contrast between the slow, contemplative walk in and the exhilarating tube ride back is genuinely satisfying. La Leona in December is spectacular — the river is full, the falls are powerful, and the canyon feels completely alive.

Our guide for La Leona was exceptional — knowledgeable about the geology of the canyon, the biology of everything living in and around the pools, and completely reassuring for the members of our group who were less confident in the water. The hike itself took exactly the amount of time it needed to take because we stopped whenever something was interesting, which was frequently. The waterfall pool was cold and perfect and we stayed longer than planned because nobody wanted to leave it. This is the signature experience of the Costa Rica wet season.